Just apply a nice coat of filler (what ever brand, whatever style, we will put that aside right now). I was taught this procedure after doing bodywork for a number of years and it really works well: Don't try to block out that first coat, just use it as a base for the LAST skim coat. What ever tools you use the trick is to not add the last "skim coat' till you KNOW that it is all you need. I personally recommend Evercoat products. ![]() "Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.ģM's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966 I is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.Ī Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.Įvercoat's “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”ģM's 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.Įvercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.Įvercoat's "Polyester glazing putty", "Easy sand" and others.ģM's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821. These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. Some examples of these products are as follows. The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. "Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. ![]() Below that is the "Basics of Basics" to using these products. There is no reason you would put polyester filler over polyester glazing putty. There are 1K glazing putty that is junk, and there is 2K polyester glazing putty like Evercoats part # 400 & 407. Its design includes high tolerance to heat, resistance to chemical bleed-through and little or no loose lint or fibers - yet it still affords the easy, fast conformability of paper for truly effective masking.It depends on what exactly you are calling "glazing putty". ![]() This 3M™ White Masking Paper brings the science of 3M directly to auto body and collision repair, helping professionals work more efficiently and achieve their best results. It also withstands heat - the masking paper can hold up during a bake cycle up to 400☏ (204☌) for 30 minutes, making it suitable for use in paint booths.ĭesigned Specifically for Automotive Aftermarket This paper is specially treated to resist penetration by paint solvents, base coats, clear coats and urethanes, reducing rework caused by bleed-through. ![]() It is durable yet conformable and is available in a variety of sizes, making it easy to handle for protecting even irregular vehicle surfaces from paint overspray. How Our Masking Paper Improves Your Collision Repairĭesigned specifically for automotive aftermarket applications, our 3M™ White Masking Paper (PDF, 34 Kb) helps you work more efficiently during a full range of masking jobs large and small.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |